Stormwater drainage is becoming increasingly important as urban development continues to grow environmental responsibility in dealing with stormwater, particularly in heavy down pour areas, is now a critical element in new developments.
When it rains, water will naturally follow the contour of the terrain on which it falls.
In urban areas, rain comes off the roofs of houses, apartments, commercial buildings and even off paved surfaces such as paths, driveways and roads.
Where ever the runoff, water will eventually end up into stormwater discharge drains.
Unlike sewage, stormwater is generally not treated before being discharged into waterways, wetlands and the sea which means stormwater includes anything the rainwater carries along with it.
So, what's the problem with stormwater run-off, isn't is just a natural consequence of our environment?
The problem is that poorly managed stormwater can cause problems such as erosion and because it carries with it everything and anything, it transports all manner of things including sediments and possibly even chemical pollution into water catchment areas.
Improper treatment of stormwater is actually a loss properly contained and handled, it can be used for recycling purposes.
Let's learn more about on-site stormwater detention
On-Site Water Detention
On-site stormwater detention and on-site stormwater absorption are the two main techniques used to slow the flow of stormwater into water catchments, particularly in areas prone to flooding.
On-Site Detention (or OSD), allows to temporarily 'house' stormwater runoff to reduce the impact of it having to run off immediately into stormwater drains.
Many councils around Sydney are now requiring OSD as part of stormwater management in developments.
Types of On-Site Detention Systems
There are two types of OSD below ground storage and above ground storage.
Below Ground Storage:
This type of OSD is essentially a large underground concrete tank that would usually sit under the driveway of a development.
These concrete tanks are meant to collect stormwater and slowly release it at a controlled rate so that downstream areas are not flooded or eroded.
One of the most important elements of maintaining the tanks is making sure the discharge control outlet and trash screen is not blocked or clogged.
Also, maintenance of a below ground detention tank should be carried out by a person having confined space training and the correct equipment as they can be very shallow and difficult to access in some cases.
[image source: Panthers Concrete Tanks]
Above Ground Storage:
With above ground detention systems, developers, builders and architects would work with a landscape architect to help design and blend the above ground detention area within the landscape, thus making a seamless integration with the garden surrounds.
Whilst there are many ways of integrating above ground detention areas into a garden scape, they will all typically include a sloping grassed area within the front garden and/or retaining walls to contain the water that is temporarily detained.
A benefit of above ground detention is that it can be integrated as a featurette think fountains!
Another possibility for storm water detention is the use of rainwater tanks.
Regardless of which method is chosen for on-site detention, there are few must dos:
- Check with your local council first as to which method is allowable for the area
- Work with a structural engineer to ensure proper design especially for below ground storage
- Work with you landscape architect particularly on above ground storage
If you have a requirement for on-site storm water detention, contact us today.
|Posted in: Landscape design Water saving Sustainability|
Brace yourself, winter is here!
While the cooler weather is a welcome relief to many from the blazing heat of summer, it does however make gardens look drab and dull.
Deciduous trees (those that shed their leaves in winter) do offer some benefits.
For example, the burning red and amber hues as the leaves change colour make for an amazing sight and when the leaves have fallen and the bareness of the trees allows for winter warmth sunshine to stream into your house.
So, while deciduous trees have their virtues, they are a pain when it comes to the sea of leaves in your garden and as mentioned earlier, during the winter months, your garden will be devoid of any colour and brightness.
Don't fret though, you CAN have colour in your garden during the winter months without the hassle of raking leaves every day.
Here are my tips for some of the easiest to maintain trees that will sure to add colour and vibrancy to your garden during winter.
Also known as Fried Egg Plant is a tall, fast growing, evergreen shrub or small tree that closely resembles the Camellia.
It has slender, oval, green leaves, and bears large white, open-faced flowers with brilliant, golden yellow stamens in the centre - looking like that of a fried egg. Interestingly, the flowers always fall facing upwards!
Acacia baileyana (Cootamundra Wattle)
This is a very fast-growing small tree with beautiful grey feathery foliage and bright yellow flowers in winter.
The winter flowering is often so prolific that they can hide the leaves.
This species does tend to seed itself so it is best not to plant it near areas of natural bushland to prevent it from establishing feral populations, however, in urban areas it makes a magnificent small tree, growing from 6 to 8 metres tall.
Photinia Robusta is a small fast-growing tree with glossy red foliage turning to green.
It has small white flowers in Summer with red fleshy fruit following.
With a dense growth habit, it's great for screening!
Tibouchina lepidota Alstonville is a small tree or large shrub with thick, woody, branching stems and rippled, hairy, spear-shaped leaves that are paler underneath.
In late summer and autumn, the leaves are almost completely hidden by the profuse, buttercup-shaped, deep purple/velvet flowers.
The flower heads are made up of hundreds (sometimes thousands) of tiny individual flowers grouped together in pairs.
The colour of the flower heads usually ranges from yellow to red. Many species flower over autumn and winter.
Citrus trees with fruit
Lemon, Orange and Mandarin.
Not only does the fruit add colour to your garden, you can also enjoy eating it!
So, there you have it with some simple pre-planning (and pre-planting), you can enjoy year-round colour in your garden with no autumn leaves.
|Posted in: Landscape design Plants|
Well it's summer long days, balmy nights, BBQs by the pool side and generally taking it all in and relaxing.
While we get in to the summer swing and of course the party season, your garden may not be overly happy about it.
It's not only humans and pets that need hydration your garden and plants also do. While this may seem obvious, it's surprising how many people forget their gardens during the warmer/hotter months.
With a little bit of preparation and regular maintenance, your garden will not only survive, yet also thrive during the summer allowing you to enjoy your outdoor space without it looking like some wasteland.
Here are some simple and quick things you can do for your garden in the summer.
First and foremost, water! Not just water, yet deeply and regularly.
This should really be obvious, especially in Australian summer where it can get exceptionally hot and dry.
Remember that you should always water your garden in the cool times of the day.
The best times are early morning or evening to avoid evaporation.
Also, it is much better to water deeply; this means you should apply more water for longer intervals than to water a little bit every day, as this encourages the plant roots to sink in more deeply into the soil.
And think about installing a rain water tank for your water source rather than using mains.
Next, let your grass grow a little longer.
It is better to raise the height of your lawn-mower blade in the summer, cutting your grass a little longer than usual.
More leaf surface keeps the grass in your home garden healthier during hot and dry weather.
Also if you mow much higher, you will give the lawn a better chance of shading itself.
Think about adding some mulch.
Organic mulch can be made from different materials, you can add anything made from organic matter.
For example, recycled leaf litter, sugarcane mulch, straw and shredded leaves.
These materials are going to help your soil in the long run as they decompose and add to your soil structure.
Spreading a layer of mulch over your soil is one of the best things you can do for your garden, especially during heat waves.
The mulch acts as a blanket and provides a shield to the soil from the harsh sun.
This keeps the soil cooler, so your plant roots are healthier, and prevents moisture loss from evaporation.
Don't forget your potted plants.
Potted plants can even be more vulnerable to overheating, as they do not have the option of sinking their roots deeper for water.
On the other hand, it is easier to move potted plants to a more protected area if needed.
So try to keep them away from the hot noon sun if possible and keep the sand moist.
This ensures roots stay cool and plants remain healthy.
Add a pot-saucer under the pot, and fill it up with water.
Watch the mozzies though!
Wind can also cause heat damage.
Wind is another danger, as hot windy air can dry out soil, plants and mulch quickly.
A living screen such as a hedge or some form of fencing will help.
Get a fence that allows some air movement. If no air can circulate, the garden is likely to turn into a heat trap.
Finally, your garden's best friend will be shade.
Placing a tree or vine in the right areas to shield your house and garden from the searing sun is a great option.
Freshly planted plants are especially vulnerable. So try to shelter them with palm fronds or leafy branches for a week or two.
With a little effort on your part, your garden will continue to provide you with pleasure and joy throughout the summer months and I guarantee you'll enjoy pottering around.
If you'd like some more tips and tricks on setting up and looking after your garden masterpiece, contact Susan Read Landscapes, 0418 635781, for a consultation.
|Posted in: Sustainability Plants|
Finally, spring's come around!
Soon those cold, dark and windy days will be a distant memory.
And what's the best thing about spring? Everything is coming to life and this is your time to spruce up your garden with colour, texture and vibrancy.
In this (timely) blog, I'm going to give you some suggestions on choosing the right plants so that your garden rocks your neighbourhood!
So here are my top 3 plants to add colour and vibrancy to your gardens.
Magnolia x Soulangeana
Magnolia x soulangeana, commonly known as saucer magnolia, is a deciduous hybrid magnolia (M. denudata x M. liliiflora).
It is the most commonly grown deciduous magnolia.
It's a broad shrub or small tree that typically rises to 4-8m tall with a rounded crown.
With large showy flowers that are fragrant and in a variety of shades of white, pink and purple, it will bloom in early spring.
Also known as Saucer magnolia, it's perhaps the most popular deciduous magnolia in cultivation today.
These hybrid trees are slowish growing, so will take some years to reach their full height.
They like to live in a temperate climate, thrive in well-drained soil and prefer morning sun, but will tolerate full sun provided they are well watered. Once mature, the plants are quite hardy.
It's very useful as a feature plant, however, will need protection from wind and prefers fertile moist soil.
Camellia japonica, known as common camellia or Japanese camellia, is one of the best known species of the genus Camellia.
Sometimes called the Rose of winter, it belongs to the Theaceae family.
The flowers are in full bloom in June and July, with many continuing to bloom until August and even September, providing excellent material for vases.
The exquisitely formed flowers are probably at their best in winter, as they can be ruined by some of the warm days of late winter and early spring.
A shallow bowl of floating camellia blooms is pretty for indoor decoration in winter; a similar outdoor effect can be achieved in a birdbath.
Many will reach heights of 5-7m if unpruned, although some are naturally more compact.
They can be used in an informal woodland shrubbery or to create effective and substantial screens in the garden.
Lower branches can be removed and a more open canopy created by thinning some of the upper branches once the plant has matured.
Old Camellia can be rejuvenated to produce a similar effect, especially those encroaching on windows or pathways.
Camellia Japonica, especially those with pale-coloured flowers, need to be grown in partial or dappled shade.
Most are best shielded from hot afternoon sun and winds during the warmer months.
Most also need to be protected from direct morning sun in winter (up till midday), which can damage the flowers by burning them through the dew which collects on the petals at night.
Some of the bright red and bright pink cultivars, however, are able to withstand this effect.
Complete shade is not the best position for Camellia japonica to produce their flowers, as they need some filtered sun during the middle of the day in December and January in order that buds may be set for the following winter's display.
They flourish best in a free-draining, slightly acidic soil (pH 5.5-6) that is rich in humus.
If you prefer native plants, then Acacia baileyana or Cootamundra wattle is for you.
It's a shrub or tree in the genus Acacia.
The scientific name of the species honours the botanist Frederick Manson Bailey.
It is indigenous to a small area of southern New South Wales in Australia, but it has been widely planted in other Australian states and territories.
Acacia baileyana is a small evergreen tree with domed canopy, it is fast growing and has a life span of 8 - 15 years.
It bears pollen rich, fluffy stamens of brilliant lemon yellow colour in June to August depending on latitude and exposure to cold winds.
Cootamundra Wattle prefers full sun, it will grow in part shade but will tend to be less dense.
It is tolerant to frost, 3rd line salt and drought.
This plant adds winter colour to a native garden and for the remainder of the year the foliage is great for contrast colour.
Will adapt to any soil conditions but does best in well drained soils.
You'll need to water it well during its first summer, prune after flowering to keep tidy and feed in autumn with blood and bone.
Enjoy your garden and remember, before anyone walks into your home, they see your garden first, so take the time to establish it and make sure it reflects who you are.
If you'd like some help in choosing your next plant or even if you'd like to know which plants would be best for your garden, contact Susan Read Landscapes, 0418 635781, for a no-obligation consultation.
|Posted in: Landscape design Plants Native Plants|
Can you believe it, we're only weeks away from spring which is a great time to buy new plants for your garden.
Most nurseries are stocked with new plants and most are top quality.
But sometimes there are plants that aren't a good buy. They may be too old, damaged or diseased to thrive when you get them home.
To make sure you get good, healthy and thriving plants, I've put together some tips for you for choosing your new plants.
What to look for in choosing a healthy plant
When you're looking to buy a plant, pay close attention to its shape, over all condition and presentation before you buy.
If it's on the bargain table, leave it there!
Starting your garden with plants that are healthy and vigorous will give you a huge advantage.
Healthy plants will establish themselves faster and will require less fussing and maintenance. The faster plants become established in your garden, the sooner they will start to fill out and bloom or begin producing fruits for you.
At first glance, all the plants in the nursery look healthy, lush, and glorious. And usually they are.
However, with a few quick checks, you can prevent bringing home a lemon (unless you're buying a lemon tree that is!).
Take some time to look over the plant, before you introduce a problem into your garden.
Here are some tips to help you choose healthy plants.
The Quality of the nursery or garden centre
Stop and have a good look around the place. Look to see that the majority of the plants seem healthy and well cared for. If there are a lot of wilted or browned plants in one section, chances are that the rest of the plants may not be getting great care.
Look, really look, at the condition of your plant. Are the leaves green, shiny and lush? Stay away from any plants that are wilting or yellowing. Did you know 'stressed plants' may not recover? This is especially important if you are buying annuals and vegetables.
Check out the shape of the plant. Is it compact and full, with multiple stems? Just because it's taller does not mean it's better. It could mean the plant has been straining for light and has grown thin and spindly.
Insects & Disease
Look closely for signs of insects or disease. Check both sides of the leaves and the potting soil. Signs to look out for include: blackened areas, holes, spots, mushy areas, stickiness and distortions.
Roots are important, so don't neglect the roots. If the plant is pot bound and the roots are growing out of the bottom, the plant may be stressed and take time to recover. If there aren't many roots and the plant lifts out very easily, it was probably recently re-potted and could use more time to become garden ready.
If the plant has a thick or woody stem, make sure there are no cracks or scars. Prior damage can weaken a plant.
Weeds in the pot are competing with the plant for nutrients and to be honest, if there are some weeds in the pot, then that is a poor reflection on the nursery or garden centre as they have neglected looking after the plant. The last thing you want is introduce a new weed into your garden Mother Nature will take care of that for you!
When buying a balled-and-burlapped tree or shrub, the root ball should feel solid. If it appears broken, there's a good chance the roots have had a chance to dry out and the plant will suffer.
Buds & Flowers
Although it's tempting to buy a plant that is already covered in flowers, plants in bud will transplant and thrive better than plants in flower. Besides, the existing flowers will fade quickly. You'll get a longer bloom time at home if you purchase a plant that is in bud.
Plants on sale at the end of the season may be bargains, but check them carefully. They may have been sitting in that pot all for a long time and be root bound or they may have a lot of weeds hiding under the leaves at the base of the plant.
By taking some time to really check out next plant purchase will dramatically increase the chances of them taking to your garden when you bring them home.
Finally, when you do bring your new plant home, give them time to acclimatise themselves by placing them in the shade and then gradually bring them into their proper lighting.
Be sure to keep them well watered until they are ready to plant into the ground. It's best to plant them in the garden on an overcast day.
If you'd like some help in choosing your next plant or even if you'd like to know which plants would be best for your garden, contact Susan Read Landscapes, 0418 635781, for a non-obligation consultation.
|Posted in: Landscape design Plants Native Plants|
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